Location: 5147 Butler St.; Lawrenceville. 412-781-3432
Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10:30 a.m..-9 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers $4-8; salads $10-12; entrees $11-18
Fare: Old-school Italian
Atmosphere: Old-school Italian
Liquor: Full bar
Smoking: Designated sections
If everything old is new again, then Pittsburgh is au courant, and nowhere more so than in Lawrenceville. In its lengthy traverse from Highland Park to the Strip District, Butler Street — along with the hillside above and the flats below — spans not only miles, but generations. Artsy shops and galleries may proliferate energetically within the 16:62 Design Zone, but Lawrenceville is simply too large a neighborhood to ever completely gentrify, and that, after all, is its charm. It’s pretty and it’s gritty. It’s hip with a history.
One newcomer that has not renounced the old is Geno’s, in the old Mama Rosa’s space, on a stretch of Butler where the twinkle of upscale shops has just begun to cast Upper Lawrenceville in a new and modern light. You might expect the successor to such a venerable Italian restaurant to introduce either a trendy gloss or an ironic retro take on its predecessor. But instead, chef/owner Eugene “Geno” Giguere has installed a dinner menu that, at first glance, embodies a sincere notion of fine dining cast in amber several decades ago.
The point is not simply to cater to Lawrenceville’s old-timers, though a respect for this generation is evident in Geno’s menu choices. Rather, in a dining room that makes a terrazzo floor and faux-sky ceiling seem timeless, Giguere has breathed new life into old-school classics that had seemed too tired to go on.
A case in point is artichoke dip, something we thought those corporate “neighborhood” restaurants had done to death 10, if not 15, years ago. At Geno’s, the dip extolled as “a taste of heaven” is much more than chewy canned artichoke leaves tossed in an over-rich cheese sauce. Rather, tender pieces of artichoke flavored by — not drowned in — tangy marinade are balanced with cream and served with garlic toast rounds to create an appetizer that is fresh and noteworthy once again.
Fried calamari were coated in a breading so supremely light and fine, we wondered how it could possibly cling to the squid. Answer: It couldn’t, at least not for long. When dipped in the homemade herbed marinara sauce, much of the crispy coating slipped right off. Still, we were impressed by the texture, unlike any we’ve had before.
With deep pockets of fat, New York strip steak wasn’t the best-quality cut, but it was beautifully charred without compromising the perfect pinkness of medium rare, and the price was about right. While we appreciated that Geno’s has moved beyond old-school vegetable prep — no olive-drab broccoli, thanks! — the dish’s standout aspect was actually the roasted redskin potatoes, slightly crisp on the outside, incredibly creamy within. Steak-lovers, take note: On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Geno’s serves prime rib.
Jason was thrilled to find an old favorite, linguine with white clam sauce, on the menu, but less thrilled to be served linguine Alfredo with clams instead. We wondered if this was supposed to be a unique take on a classic recipe, but Geno ‘fessed up to an error in the kitchen and comped us a glass of wine to make amends. Once Jason adjusted the expectations of his palate, he enjoyed the Alfredo for the most part, but it was too mild to completely satisfy. Some subtle yet distinctive flavor was missing. Perhaps it lay with Parmesan cheese, or perhaps it was simply too much cream — the pasta was swimming in sauce which should more properly have clung to the linguine.
Angelique’s turkey shepherd’s pie, on the other hand, was a seasonal special that was truly special. Sliced turkey breast, peppers, onions and mushrooms were served piping hot in a savory stew beneath a thick blanket of mashed potatoes. Though it is the very definition of comfort food, skillful seasoning kept the dish this side of Blandsville.
As the “Big Belly Deli” part of the name suggests, Geno’s is also open for lunch, with subs, salads and pizzas. You can also sit at the pleasant, old-fashioned bar and have pub grub. By daylight or candlelight, Geno’s goes to show that you don’t have to renounce, or even reinvent, the old to create something new. Good to begin with, those old recipes still deliver.
JR: 
AB:
This article appears in Nov 29 – Dec 5, 2007.
I dined at Genos for the first time last weekend and I was completely impressed. Lawrenceville needed a place like this. It’s a great place to relax and have a nice dinner and also a fun place to hang out on the weekends. There’s live music every Thursday & Friday and they never charge a cover! I had the Chicken Parmesan and it was awesome. Great selection of wines and top shelf liquors too. We will definitely go back. The owners were awesome as well.
I, too, loved the artichoke dip. It was so creamy and tasteful that I asked for a second order. My husband enjoyed the dip as well as, but the grand selection of specialty beers was the reason for him to return to Geno’s. The friendly atmosphere, “old world” ambiance, and the enthusiastic young owners made for an enjoyable Friday evening date. We will go back!
Not only great food but great restaurant owners!!! a husband & wife team who really care about the neighborhood. Just what we needed in lawrenceville!!
I checked out Geno’s Restaurant after reading the review in the City Paper this week. I’m hooked. The prime rib was the best I’ve ever had and my husband’s fisherman’s platter was a mountain of tasty, perfectly seasoned, breaded seafood. People seated close by ordered a fish sandwich and it looked like a whale on a bun! The dining room doubles as an art gallery which was really cool and after dinner, we stayed to listen to live music in the bar. They have Guinness and other good beers on draught and a good selection of microbrews in the cooler. It was a very enjoyable night out and we will be back again — with friends. I highly recommend this place.
I went to Geno’s this past Saturday for their weekly karaoke contest. I was very impressed…cheap drinks, good people (both the clientele and employees) and very entertaining. Even the hot bartender belted out a few tunes (quite impressively, by the way)! Next time you’re looking for something to do in the ‘burg on a Saturday night, definitely check out karaoke @ Geno’s!
I Love This Bar/Restaurant. Geno and Lisa are great people and provide a very warm, and welcoming atmosphere. The surroundings are very comfortable and classy, but not stuffy – and both the food and drinks are reasonably priced. Whether to dine, or just hangout at a great tavern – If you haven’t been to Geno’s, Do yourself a favor and go!
I really wanted to love this place after reading the reviews.
Unfortunately, all four of us diners could not recommend this place. It started with the temperature. Maybe they thought a large crowd would keep the place toasty. Well besides the four of us, there were only two other people at the bar for a short time. The crowd never came and neither did the heat. The night was spent wrapped in scarves and coats. We complained about the cold, but nothing was done.
Dinner was disappointing. It started with burnt rolls, salads arriving with the incorrect dressing and an entree that was not at all what was ordered. While they offered to make the correct dish, my friend decided just to eat it. She said it reminded her of spaghettios. Gino came out and apologized and offered to cook her a great dish on her next visit. The waitress offered to comp something. When the bill arrived, we forgot to check if they comped anything. Nope.
What would our experience have been if they had a full house and not just the four of us??
Sadly, I was reminded of my dinner at Gino’s for several more hours as I was awaken with severe stomach pains in the middle of the night and ended up spending many hours in the bathroom.
To the person who had a bad experience…
I am a Lawrenceville native who is now a regular customer at Geno’s. I’d first like to say that the good people of Lawrenceville are so grateful to Geno and his wife for buying what was once one of the biggest nuisance bars and ridding it of the riff raff that typically frequented the joint under prior ownership.
They have turned the place into a safe, drug and thug free establishment that one can go to for fantastic food in a safe atmosphere. This is unlike many other places in Lawrenceville where you don’t know what sort of character is going to waltz in and belly up to the bar next to you.
I felt you were being too harsh in your comments. Sometimes mistakes happen in restaurants…worse things can happen in life. Also, I know Geno would have done whatever you wanted in order to rectify the situation. He is just that type of person. He never wants customers to leave unhappy so next time speak up to your waitress or management before posting a negative comment about a place that deserves nothing but good to be said about them.
This is one business in Lawrenceville that is doing it’s part to to clean up the town (both literally and figuratively — drive by any morning to catch Geno outside sweeping the sidewalks of his and other businesses!).
To all readers out there: Try this place. You won’t be disappointed! Their food is fabulous and the people who own and work there are great.
I love Geno’s. You can’t find better food for the money. Keep cooking an filling us up with great food and love. Thanks Geno
I have recently moved into Lawrenceville and started frequenting Genos. I have at least one meal a week from Genos whether its from the restaurant menu or the Big Belly Deli menu, I have yet to be disappointed! I don’t think I’ve ever been more excited for Lent as Genos has the best sandwich in town. Others boast of this feat but none can compare to this whale of a fish sandwich. I have also had the steak salad, broiled cod, chicken parm and more. Everything has always been fabulous and served with a smile! Thanks to Geno Lisa and Pete for making my move into the neighborhood even better!