In my experience, a raucously successful night out usually reaches a point where one has to decide whether a shot is in order. This happens after a few beers or a couple of cocktails have made you want to share an experience with the friends you suddenly, effusively love so much, man!
But what to order — a bar menu might offer sweet, suggestively named selections for birthday girls and bachelorette parties, and boilermakers for the no-fuss, shot-and-beer crowd. Purists may order it straight, but where’s the fun in that?
Then there’s the pickleback. In Pittsburgh — a town nationally regarded for its annual brine-infused specialty food festival and signature Heinz pickle pins — the combo of brown liquor and pickle juice just fits. Drinkers wash down the heavy flavor of whiskey, traditionally served as part of this iconic duo, with a pleasantly sour wave of pickle juice, often giving way to a visceral reaction between disgusted and exhilarated.
However, not all picklebacks are the same — one spot might serve a straightforward version, while another might experiment with unexpected flavors. Pittsburgh City Paper took a pickleback tour of the city to see how various local bars approach this off-beat boozy treat.
Belvedere’s Ultra-Dive
4016 Butler St., Lawrenceville. belvederesultradive.com
My first pickleback came from this Lawrenceville mainstay, and I’m glad it did, because otherwise, I doubt I would have continued drinking them. While I can’t remember the exact scenario, I imagine it was during a break from dancing at one of many ’80s Nights, after I’d had a few beers and wanted a little something more.
Perhaps this fond memory makes the Belvedere’s pickleback special and, for me, sets the standard for this distinctive shot. It’s a straightforward, unpretentious option combining Jameson with classic, brine-forward, locally sourced pickle juice that still carries hints of the cucumbers from which it came. Fans of clear liquor will find it also goes well with vodka.
Butterjoint
208 N. Craig St., Oakland. butterjoint.com
Butterjoint boosts its warm, classically styled bar area with a menu of creative and classic cocktails. Its pickleback pairs Old Grand-Dad Bonded whiskey with housemade pickle juice, providing a signature experience that doesn’t stray from the formula people know and love.
The pickle juice tastes — and I mean this in the best way — like the cellar in which it was created, resulting in an earthier, less brine-forward, more nuanced creation. It doesn’t cut through the alcoholic taste of the whiskey as much as it complements it, leaving an aftertaste best described as thick and comforting. It’s not your granddad’s (wink, wink) pickleback, but it does deliver.
Commerce Bar
128 S. Highland Ave., East Liberty. instagram.com/commercebarpgh
This dark, sexy speakeasy, tucked in an alley by the back of a Goodwill, looks more likely to serve only the fanciest, most elegant cocktails in delicate glassware similar to the kind your grandmother only broke out for special occasions. Imagine my surprise when the menu featured not one, but two picklebacks, one with bourbon and one with tequila.
In truth, I expected something elevated, maybe even a smidge pretentious. Instead, I got a chilled shot straight out of the Vlassic jar. This is the camel-colored coat of picklebacks — classic, clean, and goes with everything, the best option for introducing pickleback first-timers to the magical world of liquor and brine. Try it on your next date.
Spirit
242 51st St., Lawrenceville. spiritpgh.com
Nothing invites pickleback consumption like partying in a former Moose Lodge, especially when the proprietors did their best to retain and incorporate the site’s laid-back, working-class social club aesthetic. Spirit adds to this atmosphere with a menu of unfussy, yet innovative cocktails, beer, and various other libations, including a distinctive “quality house bourbon” and “house pickle brine.”
When describing the Spirit pickleback, the term “a lot” comes to mind. It packs a sweet, spicy, garlicky punch of flavor that often leaves me shaking my head like a baby who just tried a lemon for the first time. Even so, it chases the bourbon well, resulting in a surprisingly smooth finish.
While this pickleback may not appeal to me (I’m not crazy about garlic), anyone looking for a bold, zesty option that deviates from the usual jar juice would be remiss to not at least try it.
Tina’s
4114 Main St., Bloomfield. tinaspgh.com
Tina’s has experienced a bit of an identity crisis in the wake of COVID, and not in a bad way — the cocktail bar has transformed somewhat, adding a bottle shop and tinned fish menu to its usual selection of bar snacks and tasty drinks.
The Tina’s beverage list extends beyond fancier options with an inexpensive tequila pickleback. However, don’t be fooled by the dainty shot glasses in which this is served — this is a spicy boy with attitude, a sassy little baby that will not be ignored. Much like Spirit’s pickleback, some may find the flavor overbearing or unpleasant, making it an acquired taste. Regardless, it matches perfectly with the tequila, and the kick of heat sets it apart from its pickleback peers.
This article appears in Nov 13-19, 2024.
