As the sun dips below the horizon on a cool Saturday evening, the food truck at Dancing Gnome Brewery in Sharpsburg hums with activity, attracting a lively crowd. Flannel-clad locals, some cradling frothy pints, and families form a winding line as the aroma of sizzling carnitas and freshly pressed tortillas fills the air.
Behind the food truck’s window, Jesús Martinez, co-founder of La Palapa, smiles as he hands a freshly wrapped tamale to a customer, and seamlessly goes back to flipping tortillas for the next hungry patron.
“I can’t help myself. I still love it, you know?”
You’ve likely encountered La Palapa’s vibrant food truck making the rounds at Pittsburgh’s favorite breweries serving an assortment of tacos, tamales, flautas, and enchiladas. While Martinez no longer cooks or serves daily—his talented team has that covered—there are moments when the intoxicating scent of masa and chili lures him back to the grill. “Some days, when we’re short-handed or the crew is stretched thin, I find myself jumping in,” he tells Pittsburgh City Paper. “There’s something about the kitchen’s energy that pulls me back. You get caught up in the rhythm — the sounds, the smells. It’s hard to resist.”
La Palapa has evolved significantly since its humble beginnings at the since-shuttered Pittsburgh Public Market. Alongside two thriving food trucks, La Palapa now boasts a lively restaurant and mezcal bar on the South Side and a prominent presence in Lawrence Hall, a new food hall that opened in Lawrenceville earlier this year.
“Did I always want to be in the food business?” Martinez muses. “I don’t know if that was the plan.”
Yet, in retrospect, it seems almost inevitable. Food was always central to Martinez’s family life. “In my family, everything revolved around the kitchen table,” he shares. “My mom was an incredible cook. She made picadillo, pozole, and, of course, tamales — not the kind you think of here, but the real deal, with fresh masa and all the trimmings.” With sisters pursuing food chemistry, it was only natural for Martinez to follow suit, earning a degree in food engineering from Universidad de México in Mexico City. However, a desk job was never in the cards for him.
“I think I’ve always been like that — never sitting still. I knew I loved food but didn’t know what I’d do in terms of a food career,” he reflects. After seven years of teaching scuba diving, Martinez eventually found himself in Pittsburgh. During this time, he explored Mexico’s vast culinary landscape, savoring dishes from every corner of the country — think Oaxaca’s mole, Veracruz’s seafood, and hearty San Luis Potosí specialties.
“Tamales are a staple in Mexico City. You find them everywhere. A typical breakfast in college was a tamal with a hot drink called atole, which is also made from corn masa,” Martinez recalls.
It was these authentic tamales that propelled La Palapa into the Pittsburgh spotlight. Martinez landed in Pittsburgh in 2012 through his son’s mother, who hailed from the city. But when he first arrived? “I couldn’t even find a decent tortilla,” he says.
So, what does a guy do when the flavors of home are nowhere to be found? He builds it from scratch.
Starting with a modest 100-square-foot stall at public market, Martinez set out to change the game. His stall was unassuming — a simple counter and a grill — but what it lacked in flair, it more than made up for in flavor. Martinez introduced Pittsburghers to dishes many had never tasted before: tamales filled with spiced pork, hearty enchiladas, and tacos made with fresh, handmade tortillas, a rarity at the time.
The initial success came fast and furious. Pittsburgh was hungry for something different, something authentic, and they flocked to Martinez’s stall. “The Public Market was a testing ground for us,” he explains. “People loved what we were doing, and it gave us a chance to meet so many customers, many of whom are still loyal today.”
A year later, La Palapa opened its first brick-and-mortar location in the South Side, a small 20-seat spot. It was tiny, seating only 20, but the food was big. That expansion included traditional dishes like chicken mole and lamb shank in adobo, which quickly became customer favorites. And as demand grew, so did Martinez’s desire to shake things up. His next move? Hitting the road with a food truck.
By 2015, La Palapa was mobile, bringing its authentic Mexican dishes to breweries, festivals, and private parties throughout the city. “The food truck gave me the freedom to move, to take our food to people who might not come all the way to the South Side. It’s like free marketing — we’re a rolling billboard.”
The truck soon became a beloved fixture at Pittsburgh’s breweries. Its simple menu delighted patrons, but it was the quality of the ingredients that kept them returning.
“We don’t take shortcuts,” Martinez says. “The tortillas are always fresh, the meats are slow-cooked, and the flavors are exactly like you’d find back home.”
In 2018, Martinez moved La Palapa into a larger space on East Carson Street, accommodating 120 diners and introducing a liquor license to the mix. The South Side restaurant embodies its namesake — “La Palapa,” meaning an open-sided structure with a palm-thatched roof — through its bright, airy layout and spacious patio, creating a tropical, laid-back vibe. The mezcal bar serves as a focal point, featuring an array of artisanal spirits that Martinez carefully curates.
Since then, La Palapa has launched a second food truck and became a key vendor at Lawrence Hall in 2024, keeping the momentum of its growth strong.
As the last taco of the night goes out and the line dwindles, Martinez steps back, watching his team close up. It’s hard work, but he wouldn’t have it any other way. The food truck rolls on to its next destination, much like Martinez himself—never still, always looking forward, and always ready to serve up the vibrant flavors of home.
This article appears in Oct 30 – Nov 5, 2024.
