A selection of dishes including fried and fresh spring rolls (front left) and pho hai-san soup (right)

A selection of dishes including fried and fresh spring rolls (front left) and pho hai-san soup (right)

Location: 4100 Library Road (Route 88), Castle Shannon. 412-531-8268
Hours: Lunch Mon.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Sat. 4-10 p.m., Sun. 4-9 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers and noodles $4-10; entrees $15-25
Fare: Vietnamese, sushi and Japanese hibachi
Atmosphere: Warm neighborhood noodle shop
Liquor: BYOB
Smoking: None Permitted

For years, Castle Shannon was a bit of an enigma to us. Was it, as its name suggested, a little spot of the Emerald Isle in Pittsburgh’s South Hills? Did it really have a castle? Recently, we’ve discovered some of the charms of this romantically named suburb. No, it doesn’t have a castle, but a quirky, curiously narrow little downtown along the trolley tracks, with a parallel commercial strip along Route 88. And if Castle Shannon was once an Irish enclave, today its mix of old and new businesses includes a Vietnamese restaurant that also promises Japanese sushi and hibachi-style dinners.

Taking its name partly from the road that serves it, Pho Kim 88 is located in a small strip mall. Its butter-yellow walls and mix of Asian and European décor are welcoming. The menu is simply divided among starters and Japanese and Vietnamese entrees.

The fresh spring roll was a promising beginning. This Vietnamese staple is reliable and rarely disappointing, but Pho Kim’s rose to exceptional excellence: a perfectly tender wrapper containing sweet shrimp, slightly chewy vermicelli and bright herbs. A bowl of hoisin-peanut sauce for dipping complemented these flavors beautifully.

The deep-fried tofu had a wonderful texture, lightly crispy on the outside, silky on the inside. Ginger-lemongrass sauce added subtle savory notes.

As we tasted these appetizers, our sushi arrived, crowding our table and portending a theme for the evening: too many plates, too fast. Not a moment after this, it seemed, our entrees were served. As we rushed to finish off dishes so they could be cleared, we were frustrated that the kitchen — accustomed to readying take-out orders, perhaps? — wouldn’t allow us to eat at our own pace.

Timing aside, the sushi was excellent. Spicy tuna roll included an assertive mayonnaise/chili oil mix to heat up the palate along with crunchy cucumber to cool it. A light sprinkling of sesame seeds on the outside of the tightly packed rice added a nutty flavor without overwhelming the fillings. Salmon sashimi consisted of four thin slabs of rosy, velvety salmon. Instead of the traditional cellophane noodles, it was served on a bed of thread-thin grated carrots.

With our hot entrees came some confusion. We had been provided with an array of condiments, including a clear garlic-chili sauce, the dip for the spring rolls, and bottles of fish sauce, hoisin and spicy sriracha. We were not, however, provided with any guidance on their recommended usage. Our big bowl of bun — plain vermicelli with an array of toppings — needed a sauce to unite the ingredients, but which to choose? A scallion pancake had a bit more native flavor, but still would benefit from something more. We’re not new to Vietnamese food, but we were still confounded.

After some trial and error, the garlic-chili sauce seemed to be the key, its flavor bold but light, allowing the grilled chicken, tempura shrimp and fried spring roll on the bun to remain the focus of the dish, ably assisted by bean sprouts, lettuce and crunchy fried shallots. The chicken was tasty, if a bit dry, and the generous variety of distinctive ingredients created a dish in which no two bites were ever the same.

With the scallion pancakes, the difference was in our impressions: Angelique found it to be bland, slippery and greasy, while Jason relished the crispy edges of the eggy batter — more like a thin omelet than a flapjack or even a crepe — and found that, once again, the garlic-chili sauce saved the day. He still couldn’t figure out how best to eat it — the large pancake was folded over its fillings of bean sprouts, sliced chicken and shrimp — and neither chopsticks nor fork seemed up to the task.

Last came our steaming bowl of pho, its surface pooled with bright red oil. It was so hot that, even after we were done with our many other plates, it had scarcely cooled to an edible temperature. Careful slurping let us enjoy the thick noodles, reminiscent of Japanese udon, whose wonderful tenderness didn’t cross into mushiness. Thin beef slices were bland, but more gristly-looking chunks were tender and delicious, offering a hearty meat flavor. The small wedge of lime was inadequate to brighten our deep bowl, and Angelique thought the whole thing could use some salt.

It was an indicative ending to a meal that included some promising, even delicious, dishes, but that suffered from poor timing and inadequate guidance. Pho Kim 88 is probably an excellent place to get take-out, but it has not perfected the eat-in experience.

JR:

AB:

This article appears in May 10-16, 2007.

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13 replies on “Pho Kim 88”

  1. You say that you’re not new to Vietnamese food, but you don’t know what to do w/ the condiments on the table? Are you kidding me?

    If the pho needed salt, it’s bec. you’re supposed to add the condiments according to your taste. Hoisin sauce and Sriracha are added to pho. Evidently you are new to Vietnamese food.

  2. I am from California. I do not know Vietnamese food. I do know how to parade along the corner as I gleefully immerse with my world companions in the mutual exploitation that is street food.

    I got 2 fresh spring rolls, 2 pho and 2 bun for $42, which is about $12 more than where I come from.

    The egg rolls were a little more fireplug and a little less cigar than I am used to. I think they used pepper basil, and it all scooted to one end. I was feeling first so hum drum, and then um spanked! when I what I really wanted was to be whisked away. I am used to mint and lemon basil. Maybe this pepper thing is a local variation?

    I didn’t have no menu when I ordered on the phone. It was my first time. We got a little confused about what you could or couldn’t have in your bun, and so I got one chicken and one pork. I get home and the Missus wants the pork. *&$^%! I hate it when that happens.

    I had a plastic moment with the lettuce and carrots in my bun. So lush, so proper, so green and orange, so… rigid. I got a little bit of a Mickie D’s salad flashback and got real spooked. But ’twas all good. In the back of my mind I kept thinking the chicken was a bit more Grille Chinoise than New Saigon, but like I said, what do I know?

    Anyway, praise the lucky white cat I have the hoisin and sriracha at home. And a big bowl of kosher salt. (Like mine salty, do you like yours sweet?) Next time I order the pho, which by the way is pho like pho has been pho whenever I had gotten pho, I will have to say to them, “y pico? y pico?”

    Love, love, love, love, love the iced coffee. Love that stuff. How do you make something that’s not chocolate taste like chocolate? I am bouncing off the walls. Can you tell by this review?

    So… do you think the Pho Kim # thing is a trend? The one by my old house on 6th was called Pho Kim 6. Freaky. And it’s near the Stoner Centre. Like, OK, *really* freaky.

  3. my friend take me there to eat I have the most horiable time but the service was slow and the food doesn have enough vegetable the price were expensive than anywhere else than i been to the best place for viet food is pho minh

  4. We ate dinner there tonight (Wednesday). Food was good, though about two times more than in most Asian restaurants. However, the service was atrocious. We were not given napkins or tableware when seated, when our order was taken, or when our appetizer was brought. I had to get up and stand on line at the take out cash register in order to get a napkin and a fork for each of us. We asked for knives as well, and the hostess told us we didnt need them with the spring roll. We asked to bring them to us before we got our main meal. She never did. We asked the waiter who brought our main meal to bring us knives. He didnt. He never stopped back to see if we needed more water, which I did. Finally, I went back up to stand in line at the take out register to get water and to ask for one knife for my wife and I to share, and the waiter saw me and came over to ask what I wanted. Eventually, we got one knife, one extra water. We needed a couple more napkins at that point, but I didnt even bother to ask for them because I knew it was a lost cause.

    Any other time I’ve received service half this bad, part of the meal was comped, especially when it was that overpriced. Not at Pho Kim 88.

    If you absolutely have to go there, make sure you bring your own tableware, your own napkins, and your own water.

    I will never go back. We were scouting out a new restaurant to take some friends to that we owe a dinner out, but we sure wont take anyone we like to this restaurant.

  5. I am disagreed of all the previous comments about Pho Kim 88. Pho Kim 88 is not anything about what they said. Pho Kim 88 is an Excellent place to eat there. The food are wonderful and the service is great, the place is clean and overall @ Pho Kim 88 has the best of everything than comparing w. other Vietnamese restuarant. Comment is a comment. Like it or not is your opinion but anyway. PHO KIM 88 is a WONDERFUL place to dine out. People are VERY friendly. The SUSHI, HIBACHI and PHO are EXCELLENT.

  6. this restaurant is the best! the food is to die for. all food is freshely made. and the staff is great! best date night place to go.

  7. peter anon is crazy. this restaurant is the best. the food melts in your mouth. always big servings always fresh food. the sushi is the best in the south hills. may be peter doesnt realize that a family restaurant is all aoubt service, great food, and astophmere… which pho kim has. also i think only one dish needs to be cut. i would eat here every night if i could. a great place to take your date.

  8. I ate lunch at Pho Kim 88 today with my friends for the very first time. Everything is excellent! The sushi is very fresh and wonderful. I am not a big raw sushi eater, so the server recommended me to tried their special rolls. The Pittsburgh and Royce Rolls are cooked. It’s so YUMMY!. I also tried their Hibachi “Spicy Chicken”. The chicken is so TENDER. Usually the chicken tast dry but not at Pho Kim, somehow the chicken really tast different, extremely tender. I also, try the “Pho Dac Biet”, I shared w. one of my friend. This noodles soup is so delicious and very tasty.

    I am definitely will take my family to Pho Kim 88 this weekend. By the way, BYOB is great!

  9. I have ate at Pho Kim 88 for a few times. I am originally from New York, always looking for a Vietnamese restaurant to eat. There are so many Chinese Restaurants in New York City. I missed Pho and fresh spring rolls like crazy. Now I am so satisfied at Pho Kim. This place have great food and service. I can see they do very well. I hope they will expand another business soon….because they have EXCELLENT food. Now I am is a regular Pho Kim customer.

  10. My family just try they food it was ok but it was so expensive. I love sushi but the price was expensive as fish market at downtown. so if I have to put I rather go to fish market.

  11. I live in Bethel Park, and went to try Pho Kim 88 on my way back from being in town. We got take out (Pad Thai), and it was off the charts awesome. Went back a second time and got a different chicken dish (can’t remember which), but again, it was off the charts incredible. The other Asian restaurants in town wish they could come close to what these guys can do.

    But the real mind blowing experience came last night when we went there for dinner. I got Pittsburgh Rolls. I’m not new to sushi, but I’ve never in my life experienced anything like this. First of all, it’s a gigantic size portion. I’m used to a typical roll…enough for an appetizer, but not really enough to make it a meal. The Pittsburgh roll contained 8 pieces, each the size of a silver dollar, about 1/4″ thick, and topped with a mound of crab/shrimp mix and garnished with caviar. OMG, I felt like I was wealthy eating like this. Hahahahaha. The texture, taste, and portions were five star all the way. Actually, to be honest, I was so full, when my dinner arrived, I could barely make a dent.

    Go to Pho Kim 88 and try the Pittsburgh roll. It’s absolutely amazing.

  12. I love PHO KIM 88 100%. PHO KIM 88 IS THE ONLY VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT IN PITTSBURGH HAS THE FULL PROFESSIONAL SERVICES TO SERVED YOU W. GOOD FOOD AND A FULL MENU THAT OFFER EVERYTHING FROM VIET, THAI AND JAPANESE (SUSHI/HIBACHI). THEY ARE VERY FRIENDLY AND FOOD ARE EXCELLENT/FRESH. NOW THEY EVEN HAVE JUST EXPAND TO ANOTHER LOCATION CALL SAIGON88 TOTALLY HOT AND UPSCALE FRESH FUSION MODERN RESTAURANT……YOU GOTTA VISIT SAIGON88 AND PHO KIM 88. YOU WILL BE HAPPY AND ENJOYED THE FOOD EVEN BETTER DUE TO THEIR PROFESSIONAL SERVICES AND CULINARY.

  13. Absolutely love PhoKim! Even if you order take out the food is fresh and orgasmic. They separated the noodles and meat from the broth so it would be fresh when I got home. They take great care in cooking mouth watering pleasure. The prices are very reasonable and the food is bountiful, considering other restaurants I went to. I have gone there since I was 16 and I will eat there until the day I die.

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